Trousers.



(No Muriel.)

G. M. DANE.

TROUSERS.

'(Application filed Mar. 7, 1901.,

Patented Aug. 26, I902.

2 Sheets-Sheet I.

No. 707,556. Patented Aug. 26, 1902.

mm. DANE.

TROUSERS.

Application filed Mar, 7, 1901.)

(No Model.)

28heets-$heet 2.

Z/zf zzzess E5 [721752212722 THE NORRIS Pawns co. vnoroumu. wAsnmcYomp.c.

UNiTnn STATES PATENT OFFICE."

GEORGE MURRAY DANE, OF WVORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS.

TRQUSERS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 707,556, dated August26, 1902.

Application filed March 7, 1901. Serial No. 50,220. (No model.)

T (l/ZZ whom it may concern.- I

Be it known that I, GEORGE MURRAY DANE, a citizen of the Dominion ofCanada, formerly a resident of the town and county of Yarmouth, NovaScotia, but now residing at I Worcester, in the county of Worcester andState of Massachusetts, have invented new and useful Improvements inTwo-Seam Trousers, of which the following, together with theaccompanying drawings, is a specification sufficiently full, clear, andexact to enable persons skilled in the art to which this inventionappertains to make and use the same.

This invent-ion relates especially to trousers or pantaloons of thatclass known as twoseam trousers, the term two-seam trousers as employedin this specification meaning trousers in which the front and backportions of each body half and leg are made in a single piece with aseam at the inner side of the leg only and without any seams along theouter sides of the legs, the two half parts being sewed together in theusual manner at the center of the body to form the complete trousers.The term two-seam trousers is therefore in contradistinction to trousershaving four seams or seams up both the inner and outer sides of thelegs.

It is well known that different structures in two-seam trousers haveheretofore been devised and that the two-seam idea has been to someextent employed in the construction of drawers for underwear and inoveralls, garments in which stylish form and fit are not of greataccount; but in such prior usage no result or production suitable for agentlem ans trousers has been attained.

So far as I am aware no successful system individual persons, as morefully hereinafter explained.

In the accompanying drawings, Figures 1 and 2 respectively representpreliminary patterns of the back and front portions of a singletrousers-leg as separately laidout to measurements of the person, suchas are commonly taken in tailoring practice. Fig. 3 represents thecomplete pattern or form for cutting the improved two-seamtrousers-blank as derived from or produced by uniting the preliminarypatterns, Figs. 1 and 2, along their adjacent edges and suchrectification of said preliminary patternform as will bring the samewhen united into a right plane. Fig. 4 represents the cloth or fabricblank for one leg of twoseam trousers constructed in accordance with myinvention, showing said blank as folded longitudinally near its medianline, the rear portion overlying the front. Fig. 5 represents the formof the prepared cloth blank for one leg of the improved two-seamtrousers and illustrates the manner of transshaping or changing thenature of said blank preparatory to the sewing operations, and

Fig. 6 is a front view of the two-seam trousers completed in so far asrespects this invention.

The manner of producing accurately-fitting two-seam trousers accordingto my invention is as follows: The person to be fitted having been dulymeasured in the usual manner, there are first drafted separate,preliminary patterns of the back portion B and front portion F, Figs. 1and 2, of one trousers-leg, the same being prepared from thegivenpersonal measurements laid oif'thereon substantially in well-knownmanner, excepting that care is observed that the adjacent edges 1 and 2are made to approximate in elemental natureas, for instance, by beingmade on a right line from the bottom 3 to a point 5 at or near the kneeposition and with relatively the same trend or degree of curvature fromthe knee 5 to the top 4, although the relative directions of the edgelines 1 and 2 above and below the point 5 may be more or lessdifferentiated in their inclinations. The other portions of the patternoutline, as the edges 6 and 7, waist edges 8 and 9, and the crotchpointsa and 0, can be Varied and disposed in and readily attained.

their locations to conform tothe measureiment requirementsof anyparticular instance.

The dot-and-dash line'cc indicates a medi'ari' position or conjugateline corresponding with the outer side ofthe leg from the hip to theankle or a line on which a plain fabric would normally f old'when itsfront and-rear'points F alongtheir adjacent H edges 1 and 2, the

edges being brought together and held by pasted strips, gum-tickets, orotherwise. Inasmuch as the bringing togetherof the edges tends to throwparts of the patterns into different planes and as it is essential thatthe complete pattern represent a simple plane, since the cloth fabric tobe cut represents a simple plane, I therefore rectify the plane of thecomplete pattern by making a cut or incision in each part B and F at orabout the position where the knee willcome, as indicated at 10 and 11,Figs. 1 and 2, such incisions extending from the edge S orS nearlyacross the section toward the knee-point 5. Then by placing the patternupon a fiat surface it assumes a shape, with the edges of the incisionlapped past each other in V form, (see dotted lines, Fig. 3,) where theycan .be secured by paste or gum-tickets or otherwise, thus producing acomplete single pattern .or form, such as shown in Fig. 3. Said completepattern thus formed varies from a normal measured draft in certainparts, as the position and alinement at the crotch-points, as indicatedby full lines in relation to dotted lines in said figure, and suchvariation for differing personal drafts is self-adj usted in proportionsand degree of variation to correspond with the individual peculiaritiesin each. instance or pattern upon and by thereot-ifying of the plane ofthe united pattern parts B and F. The transshaping for the completepattern-form from the preliminary patterns to properly meet therequirements of the subsequent operations upon the fabric in anyinstance is by this method practically The transshaped form thusproduced is adapted to one-half of the trousers from the waist down,including one isto apply the same to the cloth or fabric from which thetrousers areto be made, and tocut out the blanks for the right and leftmechanical enlarging or stretching operation,

in a direction approximately parallel to the seaming edges S and Sgradiently increasing in proportional enlargement from near the medianline 00 to the edge, and the said portions 'b'and 'f'being'therebypermanently upwardly enlarged from a point or lines 12 and 15 at or nearthe kneeto a point or lines. at

or near the crotch-points, by means of a machine or power appliancespecially construct.-v

ed for such purpose and acting by a movement as from the line 13 to 13and the line 16 to 16, the lines13 and 16 indicating thedegree ofenlargement or stretch which is made permanent. The relation ofthefulloutlines and the dotted outlines on Figs. 3, 4,

and 5indicates the transformation effected in the character of the blankby the above-mentioned manipulations. largement of the material in thepeculiar manner'and at the positions specified raises the The stretchingencrotch-points a and c in the length of the inseam-line and recoversany loss of dimension due to the incisions or .overlapslO and 11 I madein, the preliminary pattern. Furthermore, the plane of the fabric is sochanged that a fullness 20 is developed at the outer .ICO

thigh m, increasing from the. knee 5 toward the hips 'n, so that whenthe cloth is folded or its edges S S brought together to form the legthe fabric along the median side line 0: stands outward beyond thenormal line of the foldm,

(see Figs. at and 6,) thus providing from about the knee upward anoutwardly-incilned lateral deflection of the fabric relatively to theportion below and affording in the unseamed outer side portion anoutward conformation for fitting over the outward enlargement of.

the thigh and giving to the trousers thecontour and style required toproperly fit the per- ,1 I 5 above mentioned, a transversely-disposed V-shaped excision 17 is made therein about five son. When the cloth hasbeen cut out as inches, more or less, below and approximately parallelwith the waist-linev 8, said excision starting from the back seamingedge Tand.

laterallytapering to a point at or near the.

median line :20. The closing or, sewing together of thetransverse-excision 17 drawsin the Waist-line and rounds the fullness atthe hip 12., while it also imparts an inward bend or form to the back ofthe trousers when completed. The trousers are made up by sewing togetherthe edges S and S from the bottom,

3 to the crotch c to form the leg by a single seam S and sewing togetherthe two halves,

or right and left legs, at the back edge 7, the H front fly, pockets,bindings, 850., being ap-- plied and finished in suitable or well-knownmanner to please the taste or desire of the wearer.

What I claim as of my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,is

1. As an article of manufacture, the twoseam trousers constructed ashereinbefore described, each leg and body half comprised in a singlepiece without a seam at the outer side of the leg or thigh, and havingat the side or along the median fold-line, from about the knee upward,an outwardly-inclined lateral deflection of the fabric relatively to theportion below, affording in the unseamed outer side portions an outwardconformation for fitting the outer thigh, the said pieces being formedand fitted with permanent upwardly-distended areas in the fabric at theinner thigh, adjacent to and below the crotch, substantially as and forthe purposes set forth.

2. The two-seam trousers hereinbefore described, each half or legcomprised in a single piece Without a seam at the outer side of the legor thigh, and having the cloth at the inner thigh portions, from nearthe median line to the seaming edges, adjacently below the crotch,formed with upwardly-distended areas of the fabric, as specified,theside portions from above the knee upward, having a bodily lateraldeflection outward beyond the normal side fold 0;, thereby giving theunseamed fabric an outstanding conformation and fullness at the thighalong the median side line, relatively to the portions below, and havingits hip-form reduced and fitted with a closed-in excision at the back,said excision being disposed transverse to the back seam, below andapproximetely parallel with the top or waist line, substantially as setforth.

3. A trousers-garment comprising a united pair of leg-blanks, eachconsisting of a single piece of fabric devoid of an outer leg-seam, theblank for each half having its edges and crotch-points cut to the formshown and described, and having its upper front and back portions skewedtoward the median line and presenting at the thigh an outstandingconvergent fullness 2O beyond the normal plane or fold, said blankprovided with longitudinally-distended areas of the fabric at b and f,corresponding to the inner thigh, adja cently below the crotch-points,substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

Witness my hand this 8th day of February, 1901.

GEORGE MURRAY DANE.

Witnesses:

CHAS. H. BURLEIGH, SIMEoN E. KING.

